Suggestions wanted for swales

Discussion in 'Designing, building, making and powering your life' started by DanD, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. DanD

    DanD Junior Member

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    I posted this over for ask the experts, but I wanted to get all the input I can get. I have already built one swale and it has worked to hold up to a 5 inch rain and prevent all run-off from the top of my hill.. This is my second attempt at a swale. It would seem that when I marked contour with a A-Frame then put the dozer to to it at the flags it made the dirt go down hill and left me short on swale height; perhaps I should have moved half a blades width uphill.



    I want to know:
    1) Is its ok if the swale is not perfectly level? I have it close, but there is a 6 inch low spot about 65 feet long.

    2) Is it ok if the swales are not as wide as Geoffs swales? Should I knock out more trees to get the doze in to push towards the swale? (hate to make more bare soil; its winter)

    3) Here in Texas US, zone 7b or 8 I want to replace my existing "forest" with a food forest so my plan is to plant this swale then cut the existing trees over time to mulch the fruit trees until there are only food and support trees. Once stable then I will continue planting downhill. Is this a good plan? What would you suggest for replacing a east texas young forest.


    Im working on a very limited budget so the best I could do is borrow a small dozer with a 7 foot wide blade. Here is what I have so far.. 230 feet of swale with a holding capacity of about 12,000 us gallons.

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    Enough water flows on the drive in heavy rains to cause erosion. I am redirecting that water towards the swale..
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    My last topo using a cheap laser level. I have since dug down the high points down.. But still have to raise 65' of swale another 1/2 foot to achieve a holding capacity of 12 inches.

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  2. eco4560

    eco4560 New Member

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    It is OK that the swale isn't perfectly level - as long as it holds water and doesn't act as a drain directing water out of the swale and away.

    Not all swales are all the same size. It depends on the equipment you have to hand. It makes sense to make it the width of the blade of your earthmoving equipment - but if like me you have a backyard and a shovel then there's no reason why you can't make a perfectly good swale that is two shovel widths wide and two shovel depths deep.

    Collecting water off the drive is a great idea.
     
  3. Ludi

    Ludi Junior Member

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    I'm having really great success with hugelkultur, so you might want to consider including some with your swales. :)
     
  4. matto

    matto Junior Member

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    You are aiming for the top of the berm to be level as any low point may become an escape point. Swales are easier to fix then dams though. You can build up the berm at low points or cut down on your spillways to ensure to doesn't break over the mound.

    Lower points in the base of the swale can help pond water for longer in places it may be advantageous to do so. For example out on the ridges or where you want to increase water availability around trees. This can become a feature for invertabrates and amphibians if vegetated.

    Wider bases are usually found in higher rainfall areas that fill regularly, like at Zaytuna. But you are also limited to the equipment available.
     

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