no, they'll be fine with that method, moving as much of the root ball as possible because they are rather shallow rooted as compared to many other plants. water them in well, mulch 'em good and keep an eye on them and water when needed if you don't get enough rain (especially in sandy soil). for us the plants don't do a whole lot the first part of spring, so that is probably as good a time as any to move them. the runner thing, definitely will get more runners with june-bearing. i have more trouble with keeping them under control than not having enough runners. if you have enough sunshine, water, and decent soil you'll have more plants than you can use. i give some away but mostly they get turned under when i'm thinning. my ever-bearing fill in space very slowly in comparison. i'd say it's almost by a factor of five difference, but i've never actually grown them without competition to track down every runner to count. if for some reason you've ever gotten alpine berries by mistake you might be waitiing quite some time for runners... : ) for larger outputs plan on renovating the strawberry bed every year or second year, stretching to three in some locations. i do 1/3 to 1/2 of each established pure bed/area per season. one reference that i've been using states that the mid-summer flowers on ever-bearing plants should be removed as the fruit will be of inferior quality and it saps the strength of the plant but i've never done that nor noticed a problem. it could be that they are writing of a hotter climate than what we get here or my shading with legumes is sufficient. for the mixed/wilder gardens i'm being more experimental and may let them wander around and that will be the renovation process. to turn under the older plants behind or where i want to plant something else in a more formal patch. we'll see how those work out the next few years.