tassie anyone?

Discussion in 'General chat' started by teela, Mar 3, 2007.

  1. teela

    teela Junior Member

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    I'm sick of livin in SA.
    Whats Tasmania like?
    If I were to move there what are the better areas? and what areas should be avoided? What are the locals attitude to mainlanders moving over on their turf? What are job prospects? What are the schools like?
    I want decent sized acerage & Livable house.
    Wheres Ansons Bay? and Levendale?
    Would the cold eventually drive me back to the mainland?
    Sick of livin in SA where the outlook seems grim, always doom n gloom, aurguments about the water (or rather the lack of it).
    I want a future for my kids and some of that wet stuff that falls out of the sky ocasionally........oh yeah, rain thats the name for it (rareity here lol).
    Teela
     
  2. teela

    teela Junior Member

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    tassie

    Oh come on people!!!
    Don't tell me no one knows nuthin about Tassie?
    I know its a bit out of the way but not that far.
    Someone here must live there or has lived there in the past?
    Cmon, give me all the goss on Tassie.
    Someone, anyone?
     
  3. ho-hum

    ho-hum New Member

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    teela,

    I know what you mean about the Riverland and water issues.

    I always liked the idea of the Atherton Tableland, cold enough to get a frost and you can always whiz down the hill into cairns for anything tropical. Probably the best of all climates and winter is so brief as to be enjoyable. Good rainfall too.

    Like anywhere that's worth considering land prices have rocketed over the past decade. Sadly, most small farms these days are priced at their subdivision potential or their 'sea-change' potential and not at the property's earning potential.

    I havent been to tassie but as a travel agent sent dozens, perhaps hundreds there on holidays and it was a great destination to recommend as people always found something there that they enjoyed.

    floot
     
  4. MonteGoulding

    MonteGoulding Junior Member

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    Hey Teela

    Yep, we're concidering the same move. Tas has a lot to offer the water starved South Australian. Might be a few years before everything falls into place for us to go though. It would be cool to identify a bioregion in Tas that would be a good target for permies.

    Here's a link to the Tas permaculture association. https://permaculturetas.org/

    The Burnie-Wynyard group looks quite active with peak oil.

    Cheers

    Monte
     
  5. macthedog

    macthedog Junior Member

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    Hi Teela,

    I moved from Sydney to 50 acres in NW Tassie about 3 years ago and absolutely love it. I haven't spent a lot of time elsewhere in the state so can only speak about my experiences in this area.

    This summer has been dry, dry ,dry - perhaps not so severe as the mainland, but all things are relative, and there have been water restrictions and irrigation cuts across the state. Over the last month the south & south east have received a fair amount of rain but we've had less in the midlands and up here in the north west. I'm looking out on paddocks that have a little greenish fuzz in some areas.

    Winters are definitely cooler than the mainland, but being Irish I do actually like having a cold period of the year and a real spring season when life starts to appear again. We are in a small valley a couple of kilometres from the coast and we get a fair amount of frost. In the really shady spots it can still be frosty at midday. I haven't seen any snow in our area and there have only been a few sleet showers. And the morning livestock check does include breaking the ice on the troughs some days !

    A decent doona, gloves, jacket and hat work wonders. And hot chocolate in front of the wood burner on a cold afternoon is a treat. Of course it gets dark at 4.30, but the flip side is long twilight evenings in summer where it is still light at 9.30.

    I haven't got kids so I'm not much use on the the schools. Job prospects are more limited than on the mainland, but that will also depend on what you want to do & where abouts you are (sorry for stating the obvious). You could check out the Tasmanian papers online - The Mercury is based down Hobart way, The Examiner in Launceston (North to North East) and The Advocate in the North West. "Skilled" is a big employment agency in this area as well.

    House & land prices have increased considerably over the last 3-4 years, but you can probably still find acreage cheaper than on the mainland. You could check out Roberts Real Estate online, and mags like Grass Roots & Earth Garden often have Tassie places for sale in the real estate sections. Water availability is still as important here as anywhere else - I know places that ran dry this year and were buying in tanker loads water from September onwards.

    I live just outside a small town, and really the whole of a Tassie is a small community and from what I've seen it's no different to any other small community. We heard lots of muttered comments about 'bl**dy mainlanders', but as you get to know people and work in with the community that dies down (in my experience). Now that's not to say there are no parochial attitudes - you'll find them in any small community.
    There are lots of people here who moved to Tasmania 1, 2, 20 years ago - sometimes it's hard to find the born & bred Tasmanian in a group.

    Gunns are one of the biggest employers in the state and logging/forestry operations put food on the table for many many families. There is a lot of passion on all sides of the forestry & conservation debates - check out the pulp mill debate or the Gunns 20 matter for that !

    Or check out the town of Penguin for controversy over development, progress and recent homophobia.

    Check out Lorinna, for an inspiring ethical community.

    You know, for every person who has told me I should fell the plantation on my property, there is at least one other who has a great suggestion for conserving it, sharing it and/or using it ethically. And sometimes I get a surprise over who suggests the conservation....

    The Permaculture Tas group is most active in the South East but has members all over the state. There are also community gardens, organic gardening clubs/groups and environment centres dotted around the state as well. My network of like-minded people is constantly building.

    I love it down here. I love the changing seasons. I love the rolling hills and forests. And so much more but I'm waxing on now.

    Don't know if I've been of any help Teela, but it's my tuppence worth anyway.

    Bernie
     
  6. barely run

    barely run Junior Member

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    what a sell for Tassie :lol: Even makes me think about Tas as an option....husband would go tomorrow.....but kids and one day maybe grandkids are QLD based
    Cathy
     
  7. macthedog

    macthedog Junior Member

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    Was I bit over the top ?? :oops:

    Oh, I didn't mention Tassie time did I ? It takes a while to get used to the slower pace -
    - there's no such thing as a quick run into town to get the milk, because you'll run into so many people you know and have a chat to them all, then wait in the checkout queue (sometimes there's up to 3 people in it) while the lass on the till chats to each customer about their kids, the football, the weather etc;
    - when friends from Sydney come down we take them to our local cafe, which serves great coffee but you might have to wait 10 minutes to get it - cue steam coming out of the ears and agitated finger tapping. After a while you get used to it and just enjoy the view, the local papers and chatting with the owner & the regulars;
    - when a tradesman says he'll be able to do your job soon, that means in about 3 months time. There is a huge lead time on tradesmen - in this area at least. I'm still waiting for the electrician who said he'd come & do my work after his Christmas break.
    - when the 'wheat man' says he'll deliver 10 bags of wheat on Friday, it's best to make sure you've still got 3 to 4 weeks supply as it'll take him that long to reach the right Friday. But he's still 25% cheaper than other sources, a lovely bloke and always good for a chat.

    There are a total of 4 hospitals in the state, and in some areas there is a shortage of doctors. I've experienced the ambulance service & casualty departments in 2 hospitals and we were well taken care of and supported. Around here there are however a plethora of herbalists, naturopaths, massage therapists, osteopaths, acupuncturists etc.

    Outside the urban centres, public transport isn't great and rail services are freight only. If you're running a business and need to bring goods in form the mainland, freight costs are a big factor - at the minute I can place an order on a Monday and usually get the goods the following Monday/Tuesday, with a minimum freight charge of about $45 (for up to 1/2 pallet or so). Worth looking at the freight equalisation scheme if you're going to be doing this a lot.

    Visiting family and friends on the mainland (or overseas) always involves that extra journey across Bass Strait - time, money and pollution. There's the daily ferry from Devonport (central north coast) to Melbourne or flights from the local NW airports (Devonport & Burnie-Wynyard), Launceston or Hobart. From Devonport and Burnie-Wynyard flights to Melbourne are about 4 times a day. Of course from Launceston & Hobart you can fly directly to Sydney as well - one or perhaps two flights a day I think.

    And still I love it. This morning there is a crisp clear deep blue sky and the slightest chill in the air. Barely a branch is moving out there and it looks like a fantastic day to get some autumn planting done in the vegie garden - warm enough to be out there in shirt-sleeves and cool enough to stay out there all day. Oh - the sun is intense down here and lots of people who manage the sun easily in Sydney & beyond do get burnt down here. Due to the thinner ozone layer apparently.

    Bernie
     
  8. frosty

    frosty Junior Member

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    sounds great bernie :D

    I agree with cathy it even makes me think of moving to Tassie too .........
    after 45C for 3 days cool weather sounds good .......... but since I hate cold weather the feeling will pass :lol: :lol: :lol:

    frosty
     
  9. MonteGoulding

    MonteGoulding Junior Member

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    Would anyone be interested in discussing developing an intentional community in NW tas?
     
  10. Jez

    Jez Junior Member

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    Tassie is like most places...how much money you have when moving there is quite a big factor in deciding what your quality of life and overall experience will be like.

    What sort of lifestyle you want - rural, 'wilderness', or urban - will determine to a large extent how much money/regular work you need.

    Work which isn't miserable and poorly paid can be hard to come by in Tassie if you don't have highly marketable skills...and even then there's no guarantees. It's no coincidence that a huge number of young people leave for the mainland to find good work opportunities...without that ongoing phenomenon there'd be a much higher unemployment rate.

    Find out what the good job opportunities are (i.e. what areas they're always looking for people) and consider re-skilling accordingly if you want a decent job. Almost all decent jobs without professional skills needed or a trade, are given to people already known to the employer one way or another.

    Public education is generally very good in Tasmania, provided you're not in the lowest socio-economic area of one of the major cities. Even then it's not too bad - just a higher level of violence, chaos and classroom disruption.

    Keeping warm is a huge thing...it's fine if you have oodles of money or your own land to get firewood from, but if you have to buy firewood or heat through other means, it's a significant cost for at least 8-9 months a year...in some places 11 1/2 months a year.

    As Bernie says, the fact that you need something done soon or immediately means very little - it'll get done when the person or people who have a monopoly on providing that service or goods feel like doing it - if ever.

    If you're moving to a city, being a mainlander doesn't really matter much. If you're in a small town, a rural or isolated area, it depends very much how you conduct yourself. If you're a people person who networks well, careful to be polite and respectful, don't cause trouble (which is defined in many ways that may not be immediately apparent to an outsider) and don't 'bignote' yourself or try to change things, then sooner or later, you'll be allowed to fit in. You won't be a 'local' for a very long time though - if ever.

    As Bernie says, the sun is stronger (it wasn't always that way but is now), so you can get very sunburnt from a few hours of exposure on what seems to be a relatively cool spring or summer day. 30C days in Tassie are uncommon, but they're like 40C days further north.

    Since the housing boom, the 'choice' areas for a combination of lifestyle, short commute to a city and great scenery, are accordingly expensive. If you see something 'cheap', then rest assured there's a good reason why.

    Yes, Tassie does have wonderful natural beauty...in many areas outside national parks it also has a lot of scars from industry - usually mining or forestry.

    While the place has a somewhat pristine image, reality can be far different - again, depending on where you are. Many Tasmanian rivers and creeks are polluted just like everywhere else in the country - in some cases much worse than average. It's a small place and if you're near or in an agricultural area, chances are high they're using the same sort of toxic farming methods used on the mainland. As for forests, well, there are plenty, but in the relatively populated areas there is a lot of mono species plantations and old growth forest logging. That nice drive in the country can just as easily cause your jaw to hit the floor because it looks like someone dropped an atom bomb on the landscape. If you're in a protected no-logging area (with a higher financial cost attached), there's every chance that beautiful spring day could bring a ton of smoke from backburning the forest ready for fire season (Tassie is just as vulnerable if not more vulnerable to bushfires).

    Tassie has a wet image too, but again, it's partly an illusion. The midlands and East coast are traditionally dry and getting drier as time goes on. The North is getting drier all the time. The 'wet' parts of Tassie are halfway up mountains (with accordingly short growing season and subzero temps), the West coast (which has almost no soil in most places and is highly polluted in places) and the South West (which is isolated and mostly dense cool temperate rainforest national park). Areas which do receive decent regular rainfall, have decent climate and soil, are, again, comparitively expensive.

    Personally, having grown up there, spent a lot of years there and moved away, I wouldn't go back there unless I could afford a good 40+ acre block with abundant firewood and had enough money in the bank not to have to worry about work. An intentional community of willing and likeminded people may offset that to some extent, but bear in mind that the majority of people who live on them work menial jobs nearby to make ends meet.

    It's worth remembering, Tasmania's economy is heavily reliant on mining, agriculture, forestry, fishing and tourism - which are all in one way or another, industries which will be jeopardised by climate change, water availability, peak oil, and resultant global/national economic downturn.

    It's a beautiful place with lots of good people, but like everywhere else, it has plenty of downsides which you have to weigh up against the positives - do a stack of research, go into it with your eyes open, visit a place at least once before you buy, and work hard to fit in and get along if you do make the move.

    Anson's Bay is also known as Bay Of Fires, on the north east coast - north of St Helens (which you will be able to find on a map). It's quite dry, isolated, no town or shop, just a few shacks. Can get very cold (in SA terms) through the months other than summer (and sometimes including summer) with the wind off the sea. I'm not sure if the bushfires last year got to there or not - quite close at least.

    Levendale is South East - you may be able to find Triabunna or Buckland on a map which are relatively close. It's isolated, quite dry, fairly cold, within an hour or so of Hobart. Very small town, not sure if they have a shop, but they do have a primary school! Closer to something vaguely resembling civilisation than Bay Of Fires.

    All depends how long you want to spend commuting, where you need to commute to, and how isolated you want to be.
     
  11. teela

    teela Junior Member

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    tassie

    At last some feedback.......thanks bernie and jez.
    Bernie was uplifted by the picture you painted if Tassie...then there was Jez's reply. I guess no-where is perfect.

    Tassie appealed to me because the land prices seemed pretty reasonable.
    Most places I've looked at on-line are around 50 acres (give or take) with an old house (I prefer old houses, more character) for around the 300k price. There were even a few places for under 200k.
    If I looked hard there's probably places here on 50 acres for same price too but with the low rainfall the land is just something to look at, un-usable for grazing stock or growing anything...un-less one has a water licence, and I do, but with low flows in the Murray my water allocation could just become a figure on paper.

    The slower pace you mentioned bernie, is pretty similar to here and I would think , most country towns.

    Living isolated would be fine by me but as I have kids we'd need to live close to some sort of major town, for schools, sports ect.

    With regards to the cold, I can take it or leave it. Gets pretty cold here in winter too, many a morning we had to break the ice off of our animals water troughs. Thermal underware works wonders.

    I have e-mailed some real estate agents but they haven't got back to me yet. (probably on Tassie time lol).
    I would like to know what is the state of the market there?

    Has anyone here had any experiences with selling their place private sale?

    Cheers all
    Teela
     
  12. macthedog

    macthedog Junior Member

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    Hi Teela,

    I can't disagree with anything Jez said. And yeah nowhere is perfect. The clean green image is an image but not the whole truth/reality.

    I have found there are the extremes of passions (& I would say ethics) here - from those who turn puce & raise a shotgun at the word green to those who could never agree to cutting down any tree anywhere anytime.

    The forestry industry is huge in this state and I still find the sight of a clear-felled coup depressing. Then there are the areas where the trees in the 10m beside the road are left standing while those behind are logged - looks great to the casual glance of the tourist driving through, but still devastates the eco-system. And blood boils when talking about the process by which native animals are killed to prevent them eating the newly planted trees. And the fact that most of the trees are turned into woodchips and exported for paper-making doesn't help the blood pressure.

    Agriculture is like everywhere else - some organic, some biodynamic and some who prefer chemicals for all seasons.

    Mining is an important element of the economy and it has the usual associated impacts on land, water etc.

    Jez's comments on fitting in are spot on. I know a couple of people who came from a major city on the mainland and tried to continue doing business in the same manner as they had on the mainland. The result was a lot of ill-will and a dwindling number of people willing to do business with them.
    I am under no illusion that although I hear less of the 'bl**dy mainlander' comments, I am still an outsider and will be for a couple of generations at least. But working with the community rather than outside it does make a difference - just like any small community.

    For us, it has been a great move to come here - and as I said I can only talk about my experiences. We were lucky enough to find 50 acres with a reasonable house in a secluded location but only a few kms from a small town and at a reasonable price. Over 1/2 is bush and plantation so plenty of fallen trees for firewood. At the minute, one of us works full-time and the other works on the property and does contract work remotely for clients on the mainland. We know those jobs will not last forever and we are working very hard at creating a few different ways of generating income for ourselves.

    3 years in I am very happy with our lot,

    Bernie
     
  13. Jez

    Jez Junior Member

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    No worries Teela.

    Bear in mind, it's difficult for someone who grew up in Tassie to put all their prior knowledge behind them and put themselves into the likely situation of an outsider - the social, cultural and political landscape have changed enormously between when I was a child and when I left Tasmania a couple of years back, and those changes are felt differently between each community. All each person can do is speak from their experience of how 'outsiders' generally have fared...and the results are very much mixed - largely dependant on, as I said, ability to fit in, not rock the boat and contribute positively...under distinctively local terms of what is positive.

    If I want practically anything cheap, favourably or under 'local' circumstances in Tassie, I just have to pick up the phone. If I walk into a pub, special event or public place, the odds are very high I'll know somebody if not dozens or hundreds of people. You see something advertised like a band, a like minded meeting or a special event, and you could almost write a list of who will be there.

    Being 'local' always presents huge advantages, but having said that, there's always a 'fast-track' to being thought of favourably if you're an outsider.

    That might mean becoming a die-hard member of the local CWA, or an enthusiastic participant in the volunteer fire brigade (the classic rural female/male division outside the pub), the local heritage/historic organisation...in other places it might just mean fluking it and being good neighbours or even customers with the right person of the right local social standing. But it almost always means being flexible, polite, and quite possibly listening to and understanding the point of view of someone that at face value appears to be your polar opposite in terms of world view and outlook. A case of finding the common ground and celebrating it between yourselves on the levels you can. A case of disagreeing without creating terminal division - i.e. we may disagree on forestry, mining, chemicals and political alliances, but I know you'll be right along side me fighting just as hard for the survival of the local primary school, the local neighbourhood centre, attracting beneficial things to the community and helping each other out as neighbours to degrees which may be totally unthinkable elsewhere. Going the extra mile whenever possible for whoever, allows you a considerable local community concession to be thought of as 'weird' or 'eccentric.'

    'He/she's a rabid 'greeny' - but they bring vegies over every 2nd day...they helped me to rebuild my shed after the roof caved in from a hail storm...we've had some great laughs at BBQ's or dinner (where you make the invite and go to the trouble) together, and anytime I've had to leave my kids behind while I go to town, they've readily volunteered to babysit in what I know is a safe environment. Always being willing to do positive things on levels greatly appreciated makes all the difference.

    Bernie is right on the money when he presents a picture of polarisation in Tassie. I know hundreds of people for whom the words 'green' or 'environmental' are like red rags to a bull. If you are a miner or forester living in rural NSW or QLD, you have other opportunities to make a comparable living somewhere nearby. If you're a 3rd-4th generation Tasmanian with a grade 5-8 education gained 20-40 years ago, you have NO opportunities - and you'll be very prepared to metaphorically run over anyone who threatens your livelihood with their 'outsider ideas.' That's what 'green' means to maybe 30-40% of Tasmanian people.

    I know an arguably greater number of people, who (as Bernie also intimates) will chain themselves to a tree for 6 months on less than POW rations, just to fight for what they believe is right.

    And the two sides of the 'debate' have become so divided that it takes a special person, with a special, open, giving personality, to negotiate the waters in between.

    Tasmanian's of both sides of the political spectrum, are (taken as a majority of total State population) quite probably the most passionate people in Australia.

    You may walk into the local community meeting, pub or social group at the right time on the right day, meet the right person and lead a charmed life from that day forth. You may also work extremely hard doing what seems to you to be absolutely the right thing - but in the wrong place at the wrong time, and you become socially ostracised locally, to a level where it seriously impinges on your entire family's happiness and well being. 'Locals' don't really face that same level of judgement...as a local you're part of the landscape and not an 'unknown quantity' or outright 'threat.'

    It's impossible to say from a distance which way it will work out for each individual, but as I've said, working out and actively fostering common ground between yourself and practically EVERYONE you meet, goes a long way towards making establishing yourself a viable long term, good life.

    Having kids really does help in many situations. Two or more sets of parents that can only just find common ground between themselves, can be united through their kids being friends.
     
  14. teela

    teela Junior Member

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    tassie

    Thanks again Jez, for the extra info.

    Both you and Bernie mentioned it being dry there in some areas, I would be interested in knowing just how dry? I'm a little obsesive about gathering rainfall records and comparing them to say 20 years ago.

    As for being an outsider, every town I've lived in I've been the outsider, and will always be an outsider, because I grew up in the city.
    Being an outsider is not always bad, you don't get mixed up in the locals little squabbles for one thing.
    My kids are locals though, one was born here and they both grew up here, so moving would then make them outsiders too, and I'm not sure how they would cope with that.

    Moving presents so many problems, however if I stay the future here seems grim.
    Being the outsider for a while may be a small price to pay for a better future, in a more positive environment.
    Teela
     
  15. macthedog

    macthedog Junior Member

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    Hi Teela,

    The BOM website has some interesting data that you can access, especially in their Australian Climate Change section if you want timeseries data to view & download, and their trend maps give a quick view of changes in rainfall & temp from 1900 onwards (I found the view from 1970 to present interesting).

    Bernie
     
  16. heuristics

    heuristics Junior Member

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    Saw the ABC TV segment on the 7.30 Report on the development controversy in Penguin.
    Penguin looks like the absolute ideal seaside town.
    So of course 2 Sydney developers went there on holiday, and have come back wtih a plan for $50 million of development to turn the palce into Bondi or the Gold Coast.
    Why when people find paradise do they think they can improve it with a carpet of concrete and steel and glass shopfronts and beach front apartments.
     
  17. Richard on Maui

    Richard on Maui Junior Member

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    Don't it always seem to go, you don't know what you've got til its gone...
     
  18. bovine_blue

    bovine_blue Junior Member

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    I was thinking of a move to Tassie with the wife and son but am a bit worried about the work situation.

    What kind of jobs are in demand over there? My wife is a qualified childcare worker and I'm a studying civil and structural drafting (and will get my diploma at the end of the year).

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  19. Jez

    Jez Junior Member

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    G'day BB,

    Does your qualification fall at all into the practical civil engineering side of things? If so, from my experience there's a very high demand with rural Tassie councils for that line of work - cities, perhaps not, but definitely the more rural isolated areas.

    In certain cases at certain councils, a one year TAFE qualification in some form of engineering, along with a minor management background can land you the job as head engineer and they pay for the rest of your studies etc. They really do struggle to attract qualified people in civil engineering type positions.

    Child care is generally a very good qualification to have.

    Hope that helps.
     
  20. bovine_blue

    bovine_blue Junior Member

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    Thanks Jez.
     

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